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Bites Nearby: Villa Isabella of Forest Hills

An endless variety of fine Italian dishes.

Come early and bring a lot of friends. Hungry friends.

has sooooo many items on its menu that the Metropolitan Avenue restaurant could feed an army. Although the food is so good that the army would lose any will to fight.

Located on the site of the former Sarabella, the Italian eatery seats about 140 patrons in a romantic setting with large paintings on the wall, live music at times and a large list of specials, such as prix fixe options and holiday bargains.

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The Bites Nearby column will begin with the main entrees, but readers are asked to save some room for the specials. Pasta dishes include Pappardelle Alessandra ($18), homemade wide flat pasta with sausage, mushrooms and peas in a light brandy Pomodora cream sauce; Seafood Linguine ($24), shrimps, clams, mussels and calamari in red sauce or garlic and oil; and Ravioli Quattro Formaggi ($18), ricotta-stuffed homemade ravioli sauteéd in a fontina, parmigiano and mozzarella cheese sauce.

Of course, there are about eight other options.

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Risotto dishes include Risotto alla Zafferano ($18), arborio rice stewed with peas, saffron, pro-secco and parmigiano cheese.

Fish selections feature Broiled Chilean Sea Bass ($28), which comes in a lemon, garlic and white wine sauce on a bed of grilled radicchio, and Filet of Sole Francese ($19), egg-dipped and sautéed in lemon butter and white wine.

Pollo All’Aceto ($17), includes tender chicken breast sautéed with garlic, cherry tomatoes and herbs in a balsamic vinegar reduction. Chicken Sorrentino ($20), sautéed in wine and topped with eggplant, prosciutto, mozzarella and the chef’s special sauce, and Chicken Scarpariello ($19), bone-in chicken sautéed with sausage, roasted peppers, wine and herbs, are among the poultry items.

Veal Chop Milanese ($27), thinly pounded, breaded and pan-fried, served on a bed of arugula and tomato salad, is an option. Ditto the Ossobuco ($32), classic veal shank slowly braised in a meat broth and wine and served on risotto.

There is also a “From The Grill” section. Grilled Vegetables ($12), which mixes zucchini, eggplant and roasted pepper, marinated in garlic and oil with fresh mozzarella, competes in this category with Shell Steak ($29), angus certified, and Grilled Lamb Chops ($32), seasoned baby New Zealand lamb chops.

The beat goes on. And on and on with the $25 prix fixe dinner special, which is available Tuesday and Wednesday from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Diners choose on appetizer – soup of the day, Caesar salad, house salad, stuffed mushrooms, mozzarella en carozza, Prince Edward Island mussels or crispy calamari. Then the decision gets even harder. Shrimp Linguini, Pork Ossobuco, Gnocchi alla Bolgnese, Tilapia Oreganata, Chicken Florentino, Filet Mignon Medallions, Cheese Ravioli and Eggplant Parmigiana are on the list.

Desserts, which usually cost $7 or $8 if not part of a special, include fresh cannoli, chocolate mousse, Italian cheesecake, tiramisu, crème brulée, apple crisp, gelato, tartufo, sorbet and fruit.

This is not to be outdone by the Sunday Champagne Brunch Special, available from noon to 4 p.m., which costs $22.95. This includes a glass of mimosa, bloody Mary or wine, followed by a choice of caprese, soup or salad, followed by choice of Eggs Benedict, Frittata (arugula, crabmeat, Gruyère cheese and grilled scallions), Poached Eggs Al Funghi, Pasta Pappardella, Tito’s Omelette (mushrooms, cherry tomatoes and Chèvre cheese), Penne Regina, Grilled Salmon, Pollo Bolonese, Veal Scallopini Isabella (port wine reduction, marinated crumbs and smoked mozzarella) or Steak and Eggs.

It this isn’t enough, Villa Isabella has a great selection of side dishes, appetizers (Bruschetta, Raw Clams, Stuffed Mushrooms), salads (Tre Colori, Caprese), soups (Stracciatella, Minestrone) and a children’s menu.

Manga, manga, manga. And manga some more.

Address: 103-19 Metropolitan Avenue.

Phone: 718-575-8999

Hours: Monday, closed: Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, noon to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, noon to 11 p.m.; and Sunday, noon to 9 p.m.

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