Bites Nearby: Seo in Garden Katsuno

The Bites Nearby column does not know how to say “hidden gem” in Japanese, but it knows one when it sees one…or eats at one.

Lacking and big sign and tucked in along a row of storefronts on Metropolitan Avenue by 71st Road, lets the food do the promotion. It also proves that Japanese food is tremendously diverse.

Katsuno, which is one of various top-notch Japanese restaurants in the area, is also an example of the neighborhood’s culinary upswing. Chef Katsyuki Seo and his wife already operate the world-renowned Seo Restaurant on Manhattan’s 49th Street.

Manhattan comes to Forest Hills these days, not the other way around.

High on the appetizer list is Hijiki Seaweed ($5), which grows naturally on Japan’s rocky coastlines. Brown and salty, this “sea vegetable” is high in fiber and such essential minerals as calcium, iron and magnesium. The time-honored rumor holds that it is a beauty aide as well.

Other options are Skewered Tofu with Miso Sauce ($7) and Sushi Egg ($6).

The salad section revels in its diversity, too. Consider the Salmon & Sea Urchin Salad ($18), the Squid & Celery Salad with Salmon Roe ($15) and the Crisp Baby Shrimp Tempura Salad ($12).

The flavors of the sea continue to come forth in the entrée section. The Boiled Squid Legs dish costs $7, while Chunk Octopus costs $14. Tuna Sashimi is $18.

The thin rolls are wrapped in seaweed. The Eel Roll is $8, while the Yellow Tail Roll costs $7. The Sea Urchin Roll has a $13 price tag. The following items are listed at $4.5: Cucumber Roll, Dried Squash Roll, Pickled Radish Roll and Plum & Perilla Roll.

Step out of drink, and patrons can enjoy Chicken Teriyaki for $18 or the Pork Fillet Mignon Cutlet for $22. Then there are the Beef Steak with Citrus Ponzu Sauce ($26), the Grilled Miso Marinated Beef ($24) and Beef Fillet Mignon Cutlet in Demiglace Sauce ($26).

Noodle lovers have a lot on their plate, too. (Or in their bowl.) Thinly Sliced Duck Over Udon or Soba Noodle in Warm Soup ($15) competes with Umeshiso Udon or Soba (Plum and Perilla Leaf in Warm Soup Udon) $10.50. There’s also the Tempura Udon or Soba (Udon or Soba in Warm Soup with Tempura) for $15. The noodles section also offers the following add-ons: Seaweed, $1; Onsen Poached Egg, $3; Tempura Crunch $1; and Plum & Shiso Leaf, $1.

Keeping along with the hidden gem motif, Katsuno features non-descript wooden tables in a dimly lit atmosphere and electronic music in the background.

The food doesn’t need any gimmicks.

Address: 103-01 Metropolitan Avenue.

Phone: 718-575-4033.

Hours: Tuesday through Friday, 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Saturday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.; and Sunday, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.; and Monday, closed.