Bites Nearby: Pinang Malaysian Restaurant

on Queens Boulevard makes some unusual choices, but they have to be seen to be believed.

Like most cuisines, Malaysian food has many influences, and Pinang's extensive menu offers Chinese standards, such as Chicken with Broccoli; Indian delights, such as Roti Telur; and various Thai dishes.

The main entrees are categorized by sauce options — rather than meat selections — at this eatery, which is  named after a city in Malaysia.

Masak Lemak, a spicy brown sauce, and Sambal, a combination of tamarind, onion and chilies, are the most authentically Malaysian, and they can accompany squid, shrimp and most other meats.

But there are also various curries, as well as mango, pineapple and ginger sauces to go with anything from seafood to pork to tofu. Another possibility is Belachen, a kind of shrimp paste that is delicious with chicken and string beans.

The other purely Malaysian specialties include a variety of noodle soups and dishes that feature "noodle in gravy."

Like the entrees, the desserts are laden with many tastes and ingredients. Pulut Hitam is a creamy black rice with coconut milk, while Bobor Chacha mixes sweet potato with coconut milk. Then there is ABC, a large portion of syrupy shaved ice with red beans, corn kernels, jelly and coconut milk.

Joreen Tay, the daughter of the owners of this family-owned restaurant, says that her parents like to keep the menu and ambiance as Old World Malaysian as possible. Bird cage lamps wrapped in sarongs illuminate the wooden tables, while bamboo shoots stick out from flower pots, and a fish tank with possible culinary options is near the front door. There are no American gimmicks, such as live music, happy hours or special promo nights.

111-10 Queens Boulevard.

718-268-9135.

Hours: Sunday to Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 1o p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Prices: entrees range from $7.50 to $20; lunch specials are around $7. (A private party room that can accommodate 65 guests is also available.)