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Bites Nearby: Nick's Bistro

Traditional but creative, classical Greek but modern American

A son has fulfilled his father’s lifelong dream…and the food is great.

, which is named after co-owner Rob Sarris’s progenitor, is a roughly 35-seat restaurant featuring creative and oftentimes unique Greek-American food in an upbeat environment with a black granite bar, exposed brick walls, dark wood décor and glowing bottles.

It is also a family affair in more than the name. Co-owner Mario Savvas’s uncle is the chef, while his father makes the soups and shares time-honored family recipes to add to the home-cooking feel.

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There’s a wide range of appetizers, but Bites Nearby suggests the “when in Rome” philosophy. The following items cost $8 each: Keftedes or Greek meatballs; Loukaniko or grilled Greek sausage; Lountza or pork loin marinated in red wine; and Stuffed Grape Leaves. There are other options, such as fried calamari, grilled shrimp and octopus, plus Saganaki ($9), Kefalograviera cheese that is lit on fire briefly before served, and Gigandes ($7), lima beans in fresh tomato sauce.

The menu’s entrees section displays the mixture of Greek classics with creative flairs and an Italian influence. Shrimp Saganaki ($22) brings a plate of broiled shrimp with tomato sauce, fresh herbs and Feta cheese. The Shrimp and Scallop Brioche ($23) comes topped with a lobster sauce. And the Athenian Filet ($23) features filet mignon sautéed with mushrooms, wine, feta cheese and fresh herbs.

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Of course, Nick’s also offers Greek classics, such as Moussaka or Pastitsio and Chicken or Pork Kebab, all of which has a $15 price tag. For $23, the Sea Kebab mixes shrimp, scallops and chunks of filet of sole served in a scampi style.

Pasta dishes include Angel Hair Cappellini sautéed in a light cream sauce with garlic and pancetta ($16); Black Linguini, shrimp, calamari, mussels and scallops in a red ouzo sauce ($21); Thalassini Fotia, linguini with shrimp, scallops, calamari and mussels topped with a spicy red sauce ($21); and Strozzapreti, Kalamata olives, feta and zucchini topped with a red sauce ($16).

There is also a variety of wraps, hot-pressed sandwiches, salads (the beet salad is highly recommended), hamburgers and soups.

Nick’s has a full bar with about eight seats, so the wine and alcohol options are endless. The sangria, which comes with pineapple bits, and the Mythos beer are draws.

Until 4 p.m., Nick’s serves $7.50 lunch specials (i.e. hamburger, turkey burger, souvlaki or gyro with French fires). During the summer, there is an a la carte brunch menu from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. on weekends.

There is also an catering menu ($40 for a half-tray, $75 for a full tray) featuring Keftedes, Moussaka or Pastitsio, Fried Calamari, Loukaniko, Chicken or Pork Souvlaki, Mini Spinach Pies, Mini Cheese Pies, Fried Shrimp, Pigs In A Blanket and Penne A La Vodka.

Address: 104-20 Metropolitan Avenue, at the corner of 72nd Avenue.

Phone: 718-544-NICK (6425).

Hours: Sunday to Tuesday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Wednesday, closed; Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; and Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Special: A menu revamp will be completed within a few weeks. Plus, Nick’s rents out its space for private events.

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