Bites Nearby: Mood

Sometimes the Forest Hills resident gets in the mood to cross Union Turnpike in a random search of a good meal at a fun place. But oftentimes, he (or she) specifically traverses the Kew Gardens boundary in search of Mood, a classy, upscale establishment with a unique, eclectic menu in a cozy, romantic atmosphere.

The entrees define the word “variety.” The Pan Roasted Duck Breast ($19), green onion fried rice, bok choy and Korean BBQ sauce, is listed next to Pan Roasted Chilean Sea Bass ($23), fennel mashed potatoes, zucchini compote and lemon beurre blanc, and the Goat Cheese Ravioli ($17), which consists of carpaccio of beets, grilled prosciutto, watercress and beet vinaigrette. Other Big Ticket items are the Grilled Spiced Hanger Steak ($19), garlic polenta fries, spinach & artichoke sauté, cilantro lime sour cream sauce, and the Steamed Clams, Mussels, Shrimp dish ($21) with fennel, orange, roasted jalapeño and crisp rice cake.

Patrons can choose between 30 types of wine to wash down their vittles. A bottle of Pinot Grigio La Francesca, Sauvignon Blanc Santa Rita or White Zinfadel Round Hill are the cheapest white wines at $20, while the Chardonnay Artesa is tops at $40. Red options range from Shiraz/Cabernet Yellow Tail at $22 to Pinot Noir Buena Vista at $42.

For lunch, consider the Maryland Crab Cake ($10), chorizo & goat cheese polenta cake, haricot verts, red pepper emulsion; the Pan Roasted Salmon Filet ($11), chive mashed potatoes, sugar snap peas, lemon buerre blanc; and the Smoked Salmon Sandwich ($7), herbed cream cheese, cucumber and pumpernickel bread. Of course, there are grilled chicken and sliced steak sandwiches, ravioli, hamburgers and soup du jour.

For the diner who wants more than just an entrée, the Bites Nearby column suggests the Warm Asparagus Salad appetizer ($9), which includes roasted pepper, baby arugula and shaved parmesan; Chilean Sea Bass Ceviche ($8) with mango, chili, red onion and chorizo oil; or Escargot Risotto ($9), pickled mushrooms, grilled red onions, arugula and garlic herb butter. Although the Asian Baby Back Ribs ($9), which are braised in Asian spices and hoisin and served with sesame greens, also entice.

Every Sunday from noon to 3 p.m., Mood offers a $14 brunch menu. Each item includes the choice of Bloody Mary, Mimosa, juice, soda, coffee or tea. Of course, there is a wide array of egg and French toast options, but the patron might want to order crepes, which come with scrambled eggs, chorizo and roasted, herbed potatoes.

Address: 120-29 83rd Ave., near the crossroads of Leffets Boulevard, 83rd Avenue and Grenfell Street.

Phone: 718-849-MOOD (6663).

Specials: Gift certificates, private parties.