Bites Nearby: Il Poeta Ristorante Italiano

The Bites Nearby column wonders at times if the food options in Forest Hills are better than the culinary choices in most Italian cities. After all, local restaurants have real, Italy-born chefs cooking the finest Old World ingredients.

And some eateries, such as , which serves Northern Italian cuisine at the southern end of the neighborhood, certainly have some fine first courses.

Mario DiChiara, Il Poeta’s chef, used to work at Harry’s Bar in Venice. He appears regularly on Italian-language cooking shows, and his risotto is world-famous. Other mouth-watering starters are Carciofi in Tegamino ($12.50), baked artichokes served with shrimps and smoked scamorza cheese; Zuppetta piccante di Molluschi ($11.50), sautéed mussels and baby clams in a light spicy tomato sauce and garlic served with crostini; and Polenta con Taleggio & Speck ($10.50), fresh polenta served with taleggio cheese and smoked prosciutto.

Then there’s the pasta. For $18, a patron can order Tagliolini del Poeta, homemade pasta in porcini mushroom sauce wrapped with smoked prosciutto. For $1 less, there’s the Garganelli al Tono, hand-rolled pasta wit tuna, cherry tomato, olives and capers. Or try the Linguine alle vongole, pasta with baby clams, white wine, garlic and olive oil, for $17.50.

Fish entrees are in the low $20s. They include Orata alla griglia con vegetali, grilled Sea Bream butterfly served with grilled vegetables; Filetto di Salmone in salsa alla Senape e spinaci, pan sautéed filet of salmon in mustard sauce served with sautéed spinach; and Guazzetto di pesce con crostini all'aglio, seafood and fish stew in a light tomato and garlic broth served with crostini.

At $28.50, the most expensive main dish is Tagliata di Manzo con palate al rosmarino, which consists of grilled and slice sirloin steak served with roasted potato and rosemary.

The Pollo spezzatini con Capperi in Salsa di Pomodoro e Origano, boneless diced chicken with capers, tomato and oregano, costs $19.50, while the other main poultry option, Pollo Arrosto Ruspante, half free-range roasted chicken served with roasted potatoes and mix peppers, is $21.50.

The wine list is extensive, running the price gamut from $27 to $99 a bottle with just about every grape-growing region of Italy and Sicily represented. There are also a few selections from Chile, Argentina and Napa Valley, California.

Try finding all that in Milan.

Il Poeta also has a casual, warm atmosphere with a friendly wait staff. The chef’s brother-in-law, Luca, is a part-owner, and he is always courteous. Plus, there are other nice touches, such as the lentil- and olive oil-based dipping sauce for the pre-meal bread, and the fact that the pasta is homemade. Patrons can frequently hear conversations in Italian in neighboring tables, and don’t forget the coffee, which is served with bits of biscotti and features a hint of amaretti.

Address: 98-04 Metropolitan Avenue.

Phone: 718.544.4223.

Hours: Monday, 4 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; and Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Special: Groupon bargains apply.