Bites Nearby: Fortuna Kosher Restaurant

It's partly Russian, partly Bukharan, partly Uzbeki and completely Kosher.

Fortuna, located on the stretch of 108th Street near 64th Avenue that is commonly referred to as "Bukharan Broadway," offers an authentic Old World experience, or a New Forest Hills experience, if you prefer.

Bukharan Jews are mostly from former Soviet Union provinces in Central Asia, such as Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. Over the past two generations, many Bukharans have moved to the Forest Hills area, such as the owners of Fortuna.

Bukharan Jewish food consists of unique dishes, such as a dumpling soup called shurboi dushpera, and unique twists to common, worldwide dishes, such as Samsa, which resembles Indian Samosa.

This cuisine is on authentic display at Fortuna.

For starters, Fortuna offers a wide array of soups. Russia can be tasted in the Borsch, while other items include Shurpa (hot, spicy and muttony), Lagman (meat with pulled Chinese noodles) and Karcho (Georgian style with spicy bouillon). Prices are usually $3 for a small bowl, $3.95 for a large one.

Main entrees include Middle Eastern style Kebobs made from salmon, sea bass, fatty sweetbreads called khorovak and veal liver as well as the lamb and chicken that an American would expect ($9.95 - $14.95 for a plate). Chicken Tabaka, which is Cornish Game Hen with coriander and cumin powder, costs $12.95, while the cheapest entree is the Russia-inspired Beef Stroganoff at $8.95. Fortuna also makes three fresh fish dishes: Tilapia ($12.95); Salmon ($13.95); and Sea Bass ($16.95).

Dessert follows the unique-but-multi-influenced theme. Baklava costs $1.50, while special Bread, Matzah and Cherry Jam items cost $2.

Bukharan Jews also have a distinct musical tradition called Shashmaqam, which usually features stringed instruments and Sufi-inspired lyrical melodies. Fortuna has live music on Saturday and Sunday and other nights per request.

The interior features a sparkly chandelier, a print rug and mirrors, but Fortuna will be closed for two weeks starting April 18 for renovations and Passover. The eatery will sport a new look afterward.

Address: 64-06 108th Street. Phone: 718-896-6661.

Hours: Closed from sundown Friday to sundown Saturday for observance of Shabbot. Open other days starting at noon.

Prices: The lunch special (soup or salad with two kebobs or rice pilaf) is served noon to 4 p.m. and costs $8.49. Patrons can order an average meal — an entree with soup or salad and dessert — and pay less than $20.

Extra info: The food is Glatt Kosher under the rabbinical supervision of the Va'ad of the Bukharan Rabbinical Council.